Living in the Land of Masticha – Chios, Greece

Masticha (μαστίχα), medieval villages, tomatoes hanging outside of the door, crystal clear oceans. These are a few of the things that set Chios (Χίος) apart from other Greek islands. Chios is actually the only place on earth where Masticha, a delicious, yet mysterious, tree sap with medicinal properties, can grow. Yes, you heard that right. It doesn’t even grow in other parts of Greece and apparently the Chinese tried to replicate the growth conditions of Chios and failed to grow it. This has contributed to much historical turmoil, several foreign occupations, and war, all for this extraordinary natural, edible wonder. Masticha has also contributed to Chios’ charm, economy, and culture, unique to Greece.

We chose Chios because this is the island where my partner, Anthony’s grandmother was from. I travel to Greece once a year, did a stint working for the Greek Government at the UN in New York, and I too am Greek in origin, and I was floored by the beauty and inimitability of this island, just a few miles from Turkish shores. Chios is about an hour-long flight away from Athens and just a few miles from Cesme, Turkey. I recommend traveling to Greece in the summer between the months of June and September, so you can enjoy the beautiful beaches. Plus there is something magical about Greece in the summer, which keeps me coming back every year.

Stay at Melia Sol Art Studios

This quaint apart-hotel is located on a hilltop above Karfas Beach, one of the only sand beaches on the island. The studios offered a modern aesthetic that also paid homage to the simple pleasures of Greece: drinking wine at sunset on your terrace as your bathing suit dries within mere hours since you dipped into the Aegean Sea. With white washed walls, blue accents, and a sweeping view of the Aegean Sea and Turkey, this stay is quintessential Greece.

This hotel does not offer breakfast, BUT go down the hill, about a 10-minute walk, to Pes Alevri, a charming bakery where you can get a bougatsa (μπουγάτσα – a crispy cream pie topped with a healthy dose of cinnamon) and frappe (φραπέ – Greek instant coffee frothed, with milk and sugar, if you choose, that’ll perk you right up. They are very strong so drink responsibly!), a classic Greek breakfast minus the cigarette. I also recommend trying all the Greek pies you can for breakfast each day, including spanakopita (σπανακόπιτα – spinach pie) and tyropita (τυροπιτά – cheese pie). Bring it back to the hotel, and eat it as you sit on the terrace and keep your eye on Turkey.

Things to Do

I would recommend either renting a car, if you are an experienced driver, or hire a driver for one day to see all of the sights. There isn’t reliable public transportation on the island and the roads can be very windy and sometimes off cliffs (a common road in Greece) so I would recommend hiring a local driver. The driver may have good insights too and can make your experience more enjoyable. My beautiful friend, Maria, who I used to work with at the Greek Mission to the UN, is a native Chioti and she graciously drove us all over the island. The following is a list of some of the best things to do on the island. You can do many of these things in one day, or stretch them out over a week. The choice is yours!

Masticha is a vital part of Chios’ history, politics and economy. The Mastic Museum provides a perfect curation of objects, videos, and information that provides visitors with an overview of how Masticha has shaped the history of the island and the people who live there. Over centuries, many nations took over the masticha monopoly in Chios. The Turks valued it so much that they physically punished anyone who possessed masticha, unless they gave it back to them of course. The medicinal properties of this sap as well as its exclusive growth on the island of Chios, made it highly sought after and valued by many cultures that passed through Chios. It also contributed to much war and turmoil on the island that was a contributing factor to Greek diaspora.

We spent a lot of time at the museum learning how masticha is made and the culture surrounding its production as well. It is mainly a female based practice and most masticha is made by women, start to finish. UNESCO actually declared the masticha making practices of Chios an official cultural heritage. After you explore the museum, don’t forget to hit up the gift shop. They had a ton of masticha products. Make sure you try some refreshing masticha water!

Explore the Medieval Villages of Mesta and Pyrgi

These medieval villages have beautiful architecture and designs that set them apart. Mesta (Μεστά) has a unique, fortress type architecture with houses built side by side, so dense that there are only two entrances to the village. The streets are very narrow with no car traffic through the area. The village purposely has a maze-like design to keep intruders out, but also has distinct architectural beauty with unique archways, tunnels, and monuments. Check out the church of Palaios Taxiarchis, the oldest monument in the village dating back to the Byzantine period.

Pyrgi (Πυργί, pronounced pier-yee) is also fortress-like with narrow streets and dense city planning. What sets this medieval city apart is the distinct graffito technique, black and white, design adorned on the exterior of many of the buildings. There are also tomatoes hanging on a string or vine outside most of the doors and buildings in perfect contrast with the black and white design. Go to the main square of the town and check out Aghi Apostoli, a small church with frescoes that date back to the 12^th century.

Aside from Mesta and Pyrgi, there are a few other medieval villages on the island: Anavatos (Αναβατός) located a few miles from Chios Town; Olympi (Ολυμπι) in between Pyrgi and Mesta; Armolia (Αρμολια), known for their ceramics; and Kalamoti (Καλαμωτοί), Nenita (Νενίτα), and Kallimasia (Καλημασια), smaller villages close to Chios Town.

Go to Apothika Beach

You may want to get your driver for this visit. In order to get to this breathtaking secluded beach, you must first drive along a winding road that descends toward the beach. The catch is, there are not guard rails and it can be terrifying for the unskilled driver. Once you reach the parking lot, walk over to the small restaurant right above the beach to take in the spectacular views. The restaurant has this nifty contraption to shimmy food orders down to the beach from about 100 feet above. It was basically a box with a pully rope holding it up and the waiters send the food up and down by pulling on the ropes.

We walked down the stairs to the beach, got a good workout in, and settled on our towels on this rocky beach with crystal clear waters. I know many people are not fans of rock beaches, but many disregard how clear and crisp the water is due to the presence of rocks, instead of sand. Plus, the rocks at the shore were so small I didn’t even need water shoes to get in. You can spend the day here, or maybe a few hours before you head to your next destination.

Take a Beach Day at Agia Dynami

This is another beautiful beach located in Mastichoria with a unique set up. The beach is named after the monastery located on the hill on the south side of the bay. What sets this beach apart from others on the island is its turquoise waters and white sand. It is not an organized beach though so either bring the supplies you’ll need to spend the day here or just come for a quick visit to take a swim or take in the view.

Spend the Day at the Beach in Karfas

Karfas beach is one of the only sand beaches on the island. It’s in the shape of a horseshoe, which provides calm waters. This is an organized beach so you can grab a lounge chair and park it there all day, as the Greeks do. There is also a strip of restaurants and shops along the beach which makes it ideal for a lazy beach day. Take your pick of tavernas along the beach and have a beautiful lunch with some local wine or a classic Greek beer like Alpha or Mythos.

Explore Chios Town

You can spend a few hours just roaming around Chios Town. Firstly, go to Chios Castle, a large structure built by the Byzantines in the 10^th century that was later occupied by the Genovese and the Turks. Inside of the Castle you can enjoy lunch and a bottle of Ouzo at Porta Maggiore. The walls of the castle had several purposes over the years and even served as a neighborhood where the Ottoman Turks and Jews used to live.

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You can also find a few museums in town including Giustiniani Museum, where the Turks held Chioti civilian leaders for 40 days before hanging them in 1822. You can spend some time in Voukianiou Square, a central agora with several cafes and ouzeria where you can try some souma (σούμα), a local Chioti tsipuro made from figs and mezedes (μεζέδες), Greek tapas. At the east end of the square lies the Byzantine Museum, an old Turkish Mosque dating back to the 19^th Century Ottoman era. The museum houses a collection of findings from local excavations dating back as far as the Early Christian Period to the post-Byzantine period (5^th – 18^th century). You can also check out the Maritime Museum, housed in a neo-classical mansion a few blocks from the port, and the Argentis Ethnological and Folklore Museum housed inside of the Korais Library.

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Also, don’t forget to try out these great bars and restaurants located in Chios Town, here’s a few suggestions: Hotzas Taverna, To Apomero, Kouroumpelo, Porta Maggiore, Oz Cocktail Bar, 44 Bar and Coffee Shop, and Sueno Bar.

Where to Eat and Drink

Food and spirits are some of the defining ingredients of the perfect Greek experience. There are few things Greeks take very seriously, and food is one of them. My advice is: go to the most traditional tavernas you can find to get quality Greek food. If you see groups of men sitting there in the middle of the afternoon, flipping their worry beads and drinking ouzo, you’ve come to the right place. Bon Appetit, or as we say in Greek, kali oreksi (καλή όρεξή)! Go to the following restaurants and bars during your stay in Chios and immerse yourself in Greek food culture:

• Ammothines in Karfas

This beachside, romantic restaurant is located in Karfas on the end of a strip of restaurants and shops along the beach. Our table was situated right next to the beach with a great sunset view of the waves. A must try at this restaurant is their black garlic tzatziki, a delicious twist on a Greek summer staple. They also offered us orange galatoboureko (γαλακτομπούρεκο), a traditional crème custard pastry with soft filo dough and an orange twist. This restaurant offered a slightly upscale experience from your traditional Greek taverna but all of the dishes you would expect.

• Hotzas Taverna in Chios Town

In a quaint courtyard on the outskirts of Chios Town lies Hotzas, a classic Greek taverna that was established in 1882. This is probably the oldest and one of the best tavernas on the island offering all of the dishes you would expect from a traditional Greek taverna with delicious ingredients and quality cooking.

• Oasis Taverna in Karfas

Oasis is actually located right next door to Ammothines, but has a more casual feel, perfect for lunch. They had great quality food and all the Greek dishes you love.

• Oz Bay Beach Bar

Located on the north east side of the island, you may need to take a car there, but it’s worth it. You can come during the day or at night and you’ll find a charming beach bar with a secluded feel and the perfect view of the smallest Greek Church situated on a peninsula off the beach. They served cocktails out of an old, refurbished truck that apparently used to deliver money to banks that they repurposed into a bar. Grab a cocktail from the truck and immerse yourself in the beautiful, unobstructed view.

• Kanellos Loukoumades in Mesta

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This place is well known for its unique takes on the classic Greek dessert, loukoumades (λουκουμάδες), fried balls of dough soaked in honey and topped with cinnamon. Kannelos has a variety of flavors from the classic Greek honey and cinnamon version, to savory flavors like the Kannelos style tomatoes, feta and basil. We got the honey and masticha, and Kannelos style loukoumades and took them to the nearby Apothika beach to savor. The shop is located in the middle of Mesta village so you can grab them as you explore.

• Zacharoplasteio (Ζαχαροπλαστείο) Perfect

This is a great bakery located a short drive from Karfas. They had so many Greek delights as well as items with a Chioti twist. We grabbed some amigdalota (αμυγδαλωτά) almond cookies, masticha cream puffs, and masticha ice cream. It was heavenly.

• Restaurants and Bars in Chios Town

When you’re exploring Chios Town don’t forget to try out some of these great bars and restaurants: Hotzas Taverna, To Apomero, Kouroumpelo, Porta Maggiore, Oz Cocktail Bar, 44 Bar and Coffee Shop, and Sueno Bar.

• Aserti Taverna in Avgonyma

This restaurant is a bit off the beaten path and you would need to drive out there. But, Aserti Taverna is highly recommended by locals, has a great view, and most importantly, delicious Greek comfort food.

Chios presents the chance to explore a Greek island, like no other. Avoid the crowds of tourists in Mykonos and Santorini and travel to Chios this summer. You will get the chance to explore a truly unique culture and immerse yourself in the classic blue horizons of Greece.